According to a recent article, a storm off the cost of Hawaii is brewing up some of the biggest surf the island hasn’t seen in decades. The wave heights are reaching anywhere from 40 to 50 feet. Imagine dropping in on something that big? Only some of the most experienced surfers would dare to try and ride a wave of that magnitude.
A high surf warning was declared until 6am Saturday on the Big Island. Some beaches were even closed all together. At Waimea Bay, Ocean Safety lifeguards closed the beach because water was overflowing into the parking lot and upending trees. The waves are generating such a strong force that they can’t be held back by the beach banks.
According to Melvin Kaku, Director of the Department of Emergency Management, “The National Weather Service has told us that this is a once in a ten-year period high surf event. What increases the hazard is the forecasted wave heights in combination with the long duration these swells will be impacting our shorelines. The long duration means that ocean waters will pile up in the surf zone allowing the larger waves to impact further into beach areas. This battering effect can cause increased shoreline erosion and damage to homes and infrastructure as well as blocking coastal highways with sand, debris and water.”
Hawaii is prone to big wave surf due to its location in the ocean. It’s amazing that they haven’t experienced something like this in a number of years. Some places on Hawaii’s Big Island regular average over 10 foot waves. Imagine those waves at 30 and 40 feet! It’s astounding! I’ll be interested to see if any surfing footage comes out of this once in a decade event. You figure there’s definitely a lot of interest among surfers. Will anyone make the plunge?